If Your’re Going to Invest In Stock- Make It Brown Veal

If you are going to invest in stocks with absolute certainty then invest in making your own! Whether chicken, beef, pork, fish or what you will see below turned into a classic foundation sauce, brown veal stock or ‘fond brun de veau’ turned into a demi-glace de veau.

 

Stocks are nothing more than a process of flavor and nutrient extraction using the most powerful natural solvent on earth- water. When making a stock and finally a sauce you are extracting, then reducing to evaporate excess water resulting in intensified flavors and desired consistency of viscosity.

 

Fond brun de veau- this is the backbone of all classical brown sauces. This is a fairly neutral sauce that can be used on meat, poultry and even some seafood preparations. Here I have a more modern approach than Escoffier’s preparation where an Espagñol was prepared and then a brown stock was reduced into it by about half thus demi-glace or half glaze.

 

Here the half glaze (demi-glace) is a straight reduction or an optional thickening with starch toward the end. Remember if you cook a roux long enough to thicken a sauce you’re OK but prolonged cooking after adding roux necessitates a complete clarification because when the starch and protein in the flour start to breakdown after binding then you start to get off flavors and less of a binding ability. This will not happen with a pure starch.

 

Demi-Glace

 

                        BONES

 12        pounds        veal shin & knuckle bones
  
1        pound          pig’s feet
  
1        pound          calf feet                                                        

                     

                        MIREPOIX

     4     each            yellow onion
     2     each            carrot
     2     each            celery
     1     head            garlic — split in half   

                                                        

                       BOUQUET GARNI

     10   each            thyme sprigs
        5  each            parsley stems
        2  piece           bay leaf
        5  whole          peppercorns                                                       
        2  cups            tomato paste
        1  Tbl.              kosher salt
 

Put bones and feet in roasting pan and roast at 350° until nice and brown.

 

 

 

 

veal-bones-in-roasting-pan-w-mirepoix-close

 

veal-bones-in-roasting-pan-close2

 

You may put the mirepoix and tomato paste in pan with bones like I did here or in a separate brasier or large sauté’ pan brown the mirepoix until nice and colored and add tomato paste and brown together on low.

NOTE: (the purpose of browning is to give color and body to the sauce so however you want to accomplish this is open to variance)

 

Transfer mirepoix and tomato mixture to a large stock pot and add the browned bones.(Make sure you deglaze the brasier and roasting pans with enough wine, water or stock to scrape up all the browned bits and add these to the stock pot also. Add bouquet-garni.)

 

Fill pot with water or veal-beef stock to 3″ above the bones and let simmer for 12-15 hours. Scum surface for first 1/2 hr. or so, this is called “depouillage”.

 

cold-water-added-to-bones

 

fond-brun-simmering1

 

Strain stock and refill pot with water and let simmer another 12 hrs. This will draw out the remaining nutrients and flavors from bones, this is your 2nd wash or “remouillage”.(You can use this to moisten or “mouiller” your next batch of bones or reduce it down with your 1st wash to make an extra rich demi-glace.)

 

Reduce your finished stocks down by 1/2 (thus demi meaning half) or until the flavor is to the intensity of your liking.(NOTE: There is no heavily seasoned flavor since this is a base sauce, but it shouldhave a rich deep body to it with good intensity.) Thicken with roux or modified food starch slurry to the desired thickness or “nape’ “.

 

veal-fond-brun

 

demi-glace-being-strained

 

culinarte-demi-glace-de-veau-elite-ii

 

(This is the procedure for all the brown sauce bases, it may be made with a variety of bones and/or flavorings depending on desired final use.)

 

Remember when preparing this think more of technique instead of recipe. Flavor development through browning, extraction using liquid, then flavor intensification though reduction.

 

 

Who knows, you may be a “stock” broker before you know it!

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One response to this post.

  1. Posted by ariblogga on January 16, 2009 at 5:34 PM

    Greetings Chef,
    This is very interesting. I love food and love to cook. Will pick up a few ideas from you now. Keep posting interesting stuff and can I add you to my blogroll please?

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